A Guide – Three Steps to Avoid Falling for Fashion Greenwashing
I walked through Times Square the other day and was faced with H&M’s massive billboard advertisement, touting it’s clothes as the sustainable choice and highlighting its recycling program. The first thing I saw was a video of heaps of clothing headed for recycling, and was intrigued. As I watched, the video shifted to models wearing cute clothes and H&M branding displayed loud and clear. I felt a pang of disappointment. I started to wonder, how many people walk by this and think “awesome, I can buy cheap cute clothes and save the planet too!”
It’s no secret that sustainability is affecting consumer habits, and companies are cashing in on this. The term greenwashing was coined in the 1980’s, but it’s been happening ever since we as a society, have been fighting to protect the planet. The fashion industry has become increasingly rampant with it, from companies like H&M, Zara and Uniqlo starting recycling programs, to misinterpretations of textiles as sustainable.
I’m generally skeptical when any brand makes lofty claims about their environmentally friendly mission. Our generation is generally weary of marketing messages and hate the feeling of “being marketed to”, but we still get caught in its trap. Brands are catering to our desire for a sustainable alternative to fast fashion, and have become really good at doing so.
Instead of taking these campaigns at face value, I like to dissect them and understand what value they’re really bringing. Through reading the fine print on the label and website and asking, “Is what they’re saying true? And if so, is it actually sustainable?”, you can cut through the greenwashing.
Look for the facts – is what they’re saying true?
These days looking for genuine sustainable fashion brands is like looking for facts in a sea of fake news. It can be overwhelming to get through the bullshit when there are so many companies attempting to capitalize off this trend.
If a brand is making bold claims about their clothes but offer little information to back it up, this should raise red flags. Also, if the facts are mysteriously missing from their site and all they offer is a general sustainability statement, not good. These are signs that the marketing campaign was meant to lure you in with it’s eco-conscious messaging and nothing more.
The boom in bamboo fabric as a sustainable alternative is a great example of greenwashing gone bad. It was early in the rise of sustainable fashion, and few consumers knew what to look for when considering sustainable sourcing. Although harvesting of bamboo can be more sustainable than other wood pulp based textiles, the process of making the textile was chemically intensive and harmful to the earth. Yet, bamboo’s association with zen buddhism helped to drive sales of this fabric as the sustainable choice in yoga studios, and activewear brands. The marketing worked.
It wasn’t until reports started coming out that bamboo fabric was not the miracle sustainable textile people were hoping for, that brands started to back off of their bamboo greenwashing.
Ask questions – what sort of impact are they making?
In some of the more convincing greenwashing campaigns everything might technically be true, but you have to dig a little deeper to understand if it’s a truly sustainable claim. For example, yes you can drop off your clothes to be recycled at H&M, but what happens to them? What kind of an impact does this make on our planet?
In the recent Copenhagen Fashion Summit, closing the loop was the main focus, and many fashion brands are following suit. This could be game changing, as a circular fashion system would solve one of the industry’s biggest environmental conundrums, waste. Yet, we are seeing recycling programs popping up at many unlikely brands such as H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo, are they really helping to solve the issue of waste in the garment industry?
Lucy Siegle summarizes the issue well in her article on The Guardian, “…if 1,000 tons is recycled, that roughly equates to the same amount of clothes a brand of this size pumps out into the world in 48 hours. Then there are voucher schemes, which often fuel more purchasing.”
It is clear that through this program they are fueling more waste than what they are able to take in, and encouraging consumers to buy more and more. All in all the program is just a way to make them and their consumers feel better.
Read the fine print – learn to navigate the labels, sustainability statements and certificates
One of the most basic ways to cross check and research a brand’s sustainability claims is by reading the clothing label, analyzing their sustainability mission on their website, and seeing what certificates they have.
A clothing label isn’t everything, but I like to start there. It nice to have the basics, the country of manufacture and content. Here you can see if the material is 100% recycled or if it’s mixed with others, or you can confirm that the clothes really are made in America.
Next, I do I quick once over of the site, do they have a commitment to sustainability? And if they do, what does it say? Many corporations have a very generic sustainability mission on their site, since it’s pretty standard at this point, and if that’s all they have they probably don’t really care. Brands that are fully committed to the cause will include the details on their site, they have nothing to hide.
Lastly, do they have certificates or standards that they adhere to? Are they Fair Trade or GOTS certified? Are they a part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition? It’s important to note that although these are a good marker for bigger brands, I wouldn’t hold smaller companies to the same standard. It can be pretty expensive and time consuming to get these certificates, and for innovative start-ups and independent designers that just might not be in the cards.
Keep in mind, not all certificates are created equal. Some are more respected than others based on what their standards are and how they enforce them. There are some certificates that brands may pay a lot of money for so that they appear more sustainable to their consumers, but at the end of the day, doesn’t impact their product very much. I think it’s helpful to know of three to four quality standards and certificate that you stand behind and support brands that are committed to those standards.
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Now you can go forth and feel confident that you can side-step the alluring greenwashing campaigns. It takes a little bit of extra effort, but it will be worth it. Ultimately we need to see a cultural shift where people think about their clothing purchases and understand the human and environmental implications of their choices. If we can achieve this, eventually corporations will realize this is what people want and shift their ways, or at least I hope so. No matter how dire the situation gets, I’m a steadfast optimist.
Clothing Alchemy – Making Your Clothes Last
Oh the plight of feeling like we have nothing to wear even though our closets are full. It’s hard to restructure our mindset of old is bad, tired and boring. But by being mindful of our choices and with a bit of creativity, we can keep the life of our garments going strong. Through brainstorming creative styling ideas, breathing new life into our clothes or, if the garment is truly just had it, repurposing them into one-of-a-kind creations, you’ll have a closet that continuously excites.
Most importantly, extending the lifecycle of your clothes keeps the material from winding up in landfills and creating excess waste. You don’t have to partake in the “buy-buy-buy” consumer mindset that marketing campaigns and deep discount sales make so appealing when you have what you need and you have the tools to constantly recreate your wardrobe.
Rediscovering Old Pieces
I love polishing old treasures in my closet that I’ve either forgotten about or have gotten bored of. Mixing and matching and being bold enough to try something new is what fashion is all about. You can be more creative when you’re not buying fast fashion that falls apart after a couple washes, long lasting clothes grow with you. I hate to be cliché, but think Carrie Bradshaw, she was always taking a chance on innovative styling.
Something fun to try is taking a piece of clothing used for one thing and morphing it into something completely new. Take a shirt that you can style as a skirt or a skirt that you can style as a dress. Play around with it, the options are endless. Let me know what you come up with!
Giving Your Clothes Some Love
These days we’ve been programed to throw away worn or broken items in exchange for new, but a simple fix of a hem, adding a missing button or patching up a garment is easy and oftentimes adds character. It’s good practice to keep a simple sewing kit at home, you can take one of those you get in hotel rooms, or just grab the essentials from your Mom’s sewing kit.
If you’re not a skilled sewer yourself, you could always ask a friend or take your clothes in to be altered. Instead of going to buy a new top, you can take in one you already have to be altered and update your look. This is why it’s good to invest in high quality pieces that last a long time, if you tire of the style, you can update the look with a little tweak of the fit.
Time For a Make-over!
There are endless projects you can do with worn out clothes, I started a whole business out of this when I was in Hawai’i, repurposing old textiles. Depending on what shape the piece of clothing is in, you could either transform it into something new and wearable, or completely break it down to use for something else.
I tend to get holes in my jeans in the crotch area, and one of my favorite upcycling projects is to make denim skirts. Although, there’s only so many denim skirts a girl can have, think about cutting up the fabric for other projects, such as weaving, patchwork, quilting, or even a household rag.
If you really don’t have the time make something or repurpose the fabric on your own, look into organizations to donate to, or places that recycle or buy used clothing. There are a lot of options here, and you’ll need to do your research. Not all thrift stores are created equal, and it’s important to understand how textiles will be recycled and repurposed. By donating to the wrong organization your clothes could still end up in a landfill or be sent off to Haiti to occupy a landfill there.
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If you go through this article and you still feel like you need new additions to your closet, consider doing a clothing swap with friends. Make a day of it, invite friends over for brunch and have mimosas while swapping your forgotten duds. Having a fun Sunday with close friends will be just as worth the new finds you’ll walk away with.
Conscious Fashionista – The Clean Fashion Diet
Taking the Plunge
If you’re the type of person that loves Zara, H&M, and Forever 21, I get it, I’ve been there. I started my clean fashion/conscious fashionista journey three years ago and I’m still not perfect. I have my slip ups and moments of weakness, but that’s ok. We’re all human and like any diet, you are bound to have some setbacks.
The important thing is to shift your mindset. As a consumer you vote with your dollar, and you should know what policies and business practices your money goes towards. It’s easy to ignore or be ignorant to how our clothes are made. Most brands are not transparent about their supply chain and oftentimes production happens abroad, negatively affecting communities we’re not a part of.
Many words get thrown around when talking about this alternative fashion movement, sustainable, eco, fair trade, slow, etc. It can be confusing with different labels and definitions depending on which perspective people are taking on the issue. There also tends to be a lot of blame and judgement thrown around, making it an exclusive clique where outsiders don’t feel welcome. I’m attempting to open up this world a little and define the mindset of those taking part in the movement, and the steps you can take to stand with us.
I choose the words conscious and ethical because they are not tainted by overuse or greenwash marketing…as of yet. Furthermore, words like sustainable and fair trade are only facets of the movement. I’m certainly not the first person defining the field but for me it goes beyond the clothes themselves to the consciousness of the consumer. I’ll leave you with my definition below:
Conscious Fashionista – An individual who expresses themselves through clothing that is well made and long lasting, with minimal to no negative impact on the earth and people who created them. They celebrate innovation, impeccable design, cultural traditions and craftsmanship. The Conscious Fashionista is mindful of the damage caused by fast fashion and is fighting back by sharing her ethical fashion story and standing up against fast fashion.
Sounds simple, but it can be hard to go against the grain of our consumer culture. Here are some guiding principles to help get you started and stay on track.
Track and Trace – Know the Source
Depending on the brand, this can be tricky. But if it is too difficult to confirm that the materials are responsibly sourced, or that they are treating their workers well, you probably shouldn’t be shopping there. Many brands these days have their “corporate social responsibility” blurb, which sounds really nice, but there’s usually more to the story. Take H&M for example, they are pushing a lot of sustainability initiatives and even producing with their own sustainable line, but they are still creating massive amounts of waste and producing at potentially unsafe factories with unfair working conditions. This is where you have to make your own judgement call, do the sustainability initiatives make up for everything else? It’s your call, but make sure you’re well informed and can stand behind your choices.
It helps to narrow down the main causes you care about as opposed to ethical fashion as a whole. Whether it be organic materials, locally made, fair working conditions, etc. Choose one or two that you’re truly passionate about and let that drive you.
For me, I love vintage as well as long lasting classic pieces that are produced fairly. Before I shop, I think of anything I’m missing from my wardrobe and research different types of styles and fit to see what I actually want before stepping foot in a store, or purchasing online. I have a handful of go-to brands that I’ve researched and trust, if I don’t see what I want there, I hit the vintage stores. The goal is to buy products that you will cherish.
Quality and Tradition – Know Your Fashion
Did you learn to sew with your mom? Or maybe your grandma taught you to knit? These days maybe not, but traditionally clothing was a very personal and cultural experience. You were given heirloom products from your older family members, and you’d spend hours creating and making textiles together. These traditions have largely been lost due to the globalization and industrialization of our communities. Part of becoming a conscious fashionista is to reconnect to these roots and appreciate the garment as something that should be well made and non-disposable.
This is not to say that you need to make all your clothes, but to celebrate designers and innovators. Find brands you can stand behind and understand what makes their products so special. If you appreciate what goes into making a quality piece of clothing, the better you can spot the subtleties in great, well thought out design.
Again you’ll need to decide what is most important to you, quality design means different things to different people. Some people choose to follow artisan brands preserving cultural crafts, others follow tech companies creating radical new ways of recycling textiles. Whatever you choose, just start following, sharing stories and engaging in the community, this is a great first step.
Share the Love – Tell Your Story
At the end of the day, fashion is about expression and having fun. You should feel confident and empowered when you get dressed in the morning. Being a conscious fashionista is showing pride in your clothes and being excited about their story. When seeing someone who is well dressed and confident in their style, others follow suit.
Share the love on Facebook, Instagram, e-mail, or however you connect with those close to you. Even just by talking about it when you’re out with your friends, or if a co-worker compliments you on your clothes, tell them your story.
One thing I’m wary of is how easy it is to get preachy when talking about the ethical fashion movement. Instead I hope to shine a light on how easy it can be, and how this can be an extension of what you may already practice. By training ourselves to look deeper and ask questions about how our clothes were sourced, and who made them, we are starting a slow cultural shift. Together we are becoming more aware of the damage caused by fast fashion, and the strength of being more mindful and conscious of your power as a consumer.